Nothing like a little getaway to offer a change of scenery and rejuvenate the spirits. The trip to Amelia Island was planned months ago by my husband’s parents as a sort of family vacation, to which his parents, sister and her boyfriend, and the two of us would enjoy (along with the dogs, of course… because they’re part of the family, too). We rented an SUV and packed up the three adults (Michael, his Mom and I), the two dogs (Tank, our English Bulldog, and Madei, his Mom’s little Westie), about half the house, and made the 5.5 hour trek up the Florida coast. The drive wasn’t all that bad, sans the fragrant, pet-generated aromas and frequent bathroom breaks, and we made it in one piece. Success!

Michael’s Dad was awaiting us at the house they rented in Amelia Island Plantation, a gated resort-like community of mixed villas, single-family homes and an Omni resort. The house was Mediterranean inspired, three bedroom, two bath, that would comfortably accommodate 7 of us by the end of it (one of the cousins came over for two days at the end of the trip) thanks to a comfy pull out couch in the living room. While we had our computers in tow, and had to put in some work hours during our stay, it was nice having the flexibility to be away for a bit.

For the first few days, we mostly hung around the house working in the morning and early part of the afternoon, then spending some time by the backyard pool, taking walks with Tank, and exploring the Plantation. Within the community there were several private beach access points, a golf course (not cheap at $150 before 2pm… but I’m not a golfer, so…), apx. 50 tennis courts, a fitness center, a large community pool by the beach, and the Omni’s facilities. There was actually a set of shops and restaurants near the entrance to the Plantation, which had public access, which was unique and during the times I stopped by, was alive with visitors and locals alike; a nice place to hang out.

Once obligations were out of the way, we had some time to lay by the community pool, order drinks you only do when you’re on vacation (you know, tropical flavors, bright color, umbrellas), lazily meander around on golf carts. Yes, golf carts; they came with the house! Fernandina Beach, the heart of which is about 15 minutes North of where we were staying, became a regular destination. The downtown area is lined with local eateries and small shops, nestled in low country, as they call it — marshes scattered through the island.

Always on the prowl for tasty cuisine, we were eager to try out the local flavor. One of our dining highlights came on the first night in Amelia Island at 29 South Eats. We were celebrating Mother’s Day which, technically, was the day prior, but that’s just how things worked out. I’d found the restaurant online when searching for a place to make a reservation, and one of the things that stood out for me was that they used products from local growers and farmers, and even some of their own garden ingredients. Our meals were delicious, hearty, and there were some really unique flavor combinations. The Sweet Tea Brined Pork Chop, for example, was served over a light elbow macaroni and topped with warm blackberry ginger preserves — not overly heavy, and a lovely blend of sweet and savory. The Coffee and Donuts dessert was a sweet finish to our savory feast. This is definitely a dining spot I would recommend to any visitors in and around Fernandina Beach.

On one of our last evenings, we all gathered in the shopping/dining area of the Plantation for dinner at Marche Burette, popular that night for the live music and outdoor seating. It seems visitors on the Plantation and locals alike gather here for the laid back atmosphere and casual good time. The scenery was nice and it was convenient (we took the golf carts!), plus music just makes everything better. We had to wait a few minutes to snag a table, so we took advantage of the neighboring shops to pass the time.

While it might not have been a place the two of us would venture, for a relaxed family getaway, Amelia island was a nice balance of quiet and leisurely activities. Everyone had a little space to take time for themselves, but there were definitely opportunities for all of us to get together and enjoy one another’s company. It’s a good spot to unwind a little and rejuvenate before returning to the daily grind.

When we mention Bali to friends, they immediately think of the book/movie “Eat Pray Love,” or, “…that damn book…” as the Balinese have been known to call it, thanks to the sudden influx of female tourists; no doubt in search of the something missing in their lives.  I’m here to say firsthand that while Bali does have beauty and culture to share, the Indonesian island is slightly glamorized (at least in the film) from its true self.  The people are friendly and smiling, for the most part, but I wouldn’t exactly call most of the streets of Bali picturesque.  It’s a little dirty, the taxis honk every time they pass (as if you didn’t want to wave for a cab if you wanted one), and the beaches leave something to be desired.   That said, Bali has much to offer from delectable cuisine to sweeping landscapes, devout practice of religion and beautiful handicrafts.  Some wish to call this place home, while others (like myself) enjoy having the experience of being a visitor (and more importantly, sampling the food… I’ve been craving some of the Indonesian dishes I had since I left!).

February 20 – BKK to Bali

• Our day began earlier than I would have liked, rising to the alarm at 3:30 am.  We took the 4:00 am shuttle to the airport, and unexpectedly came upon rows of long check in lines.  Thankfully, we had a little time to spare, and spent the rest of our THB on two coffees and a donut before boarding our Air Asia flight to Bali.
• As I’ve said before, Air Asia isn’t the best in the land, but the seats are moderately comfortable and we didn’t have all that many options when looking for good fares from back home, so it would do just fine.  Unfortunately, on the 4 hour flight there were no beverages included, let alone snacks.  I won’t recommend this airline unless there aren’t any other cost effective options.
• The Denpasar airport was unexpectedly old, musty smelling and highly disorganized.  It took a while to figure out exactly what we had to do in order to get out through customs properly, involving getting some forms, purchasing a visa ($25 each) and waiting.  We wound up arranging pickup from our hotel through their preferred shuttle guy prior to flying, so he was waiting for us once we made it out of the airport (after struggling to get away from a few aggressive drivers determined to give us a ride).  There was a little discrepancy with the driver regarding the agreed upon price, but we wound up settling that in our favor.
• Our hotel, the Paneeda View, located in Sanur,  was overall satisfactory but there were a few things we anticipated but were disappointed not to have.  For instance, we booked a “beach bungalow,” only to find that there were in fact NO bungalows on the beach.  We had thought the sand would be right outside our door, and we would be steps to the water.  Instead, the hotel’s restaurant held that position, and all the bungalows were set back a couple hundred feet from there.  Also, the luxurious accommodations we had anticipated were a bit lackluster…after all, this was our “splurge.”  After a little pouting, we decided to make do and enjoy it for what it was and just appreciate being in Bali.
• After unpacking, we went to the restaurant for some lunch, cashing in our complimentary welcome drink coupons (which were really just some fruit juice concoctions, but very tasty) and dined on cashew chicken and honey herb chicken with veggies.  Both were surprisingly wonderful, great portions, albeit overpriced by Balinese, but we were very satisfied, as were our bellies.
• A short nap later, we went out in search of a laundry facility to wash some of our clothes.   We then went to Circle K (Bali’s convenience counterpart to Thailand’s 7-11) for a few snacks and drinks, and then went for a nice walk along the beach by our hotel.
• That evening, we dined at Coriander, a lovely little restaurant just across the main road from our hotel.  Like many restaurants, it offered a nice mix of local and international cuisine.  Each diner was presented with a “shot” of juice and mixed nuts to munch on prior to entrees being served.  We ordered two watermelon juices, which we added sprite to for a little extra refreshment, and then dined on Pork and Mandarin Orange Salad and Cap Cay.  The salad had an unexpected spice to it which, after overcoming those first few bites, was very satisfying.  The Cap Cay (pronounced “chop chai”) is a lightly stir fried mixture of chicken and veggies (similar to chop suey).  Both were very tasty and flavorful.  Dessert was in the cards, and we opted for coco-banana fritters, which were essentially bananas coated in shredded coconut and fried, served with vanilla ice cream, drizzled with a caramel and cream sauce.  It was delicious and a perfect end to a wonderful meal.
• A nice little perk we discovered was that many restaurants in the area offered free wi-fi to diners.  For us, that worked out well, as we could check email and correspond with family back home while we waited for our food.  Since our hotel did not have free internet, we took advantage of the restaurant wi-fi whenever possible.

February 21 – Sanur, Bali

• It was a leisurely day for us.  We began by waking up around 9, then ventured to the hotel restaurant for breakfast (score!  included in the rate).  Okay, so it wasn’t the best thing ever, but it was free and we were filled: fruit, toast/croissant, eggs (though we skipped these), sausage (decided I would skip this the next time), fruit juice and coffee.
• We walked down the beach and barely made it 1/4 mile before we had to stop for a dip.  The current was actually very strong and I only stood in up to my ankles, while Michael was a little braver and went all the way in.
• To cool down in a calmer setting, we went back to the hotel and parked our towels on some chairs before taking a nice dip in the pool.  We laid out, rested, and did nothing for a bit.  So great!
• For lunch, we went down the road to You and Me Cafe.  In short – SO GOOD!  I had the Kate Sayur, which is basically a mixed vegetable curry, but was so flavorful and yet mild, unlike anything I’d had before.  Michael had fried pork which was sweet and sour, served with rice.  The server was extremely friendly and sweet, asking questions about where we were from and our trip.  I would highly recommend this place.
• We picked up our laundry, browsed a few stores, then went back to the pool to catch up where we left off.
• For dinner, we wanted to try a Japanese place we’d seen earlier in the day.  It was a pretty nice atmosphere, until the fan started making an annoying squeaking noise.  Oh well.  we had 2 types of sushi rolls and 2 orders of skewers (chicken and beef), and then finished with a strawberry sundae.  So far, our least favorite food on Bali but still pretty tasty.
• We walked around some before heading back to our  hotel and planning out the next day’s adventures.  We had booked a private car earlier in the day to take us around the island, and were excited to plan it out.
• Overall, a relaxing and much needed day of nothingness, which we thoroughly enjoyed.

February 22 - Tour of Bali

• We started with breakfast at the hotel, then met our driver in the lobby at 10:00 am.   We confirmed with him that a credit card would be acceptable payment later in the day, he said, “Yes,” (though later, this came to be a bit of an issue), for a full day, 10 hours, for a total of $45.
• We mentioned the places we wanted to visit, but he suggested stopping off at a few handicraft shops along the way.  The first specialized in batik fabric, a unique way of using layers of wax and several dyes to create intricately designed materials.  The next, a jewelry making shop, using gold and stones from the area.  While it was nice to see the Balinese people creating such beautiful works, the downside was that we were expected to purchase something at each stop.  In fact, when we refused to buy anything at the jewelry shop, the owner was clearly upset and complained to our driver… oh well.  Just because we’re American doesn’t mean we’ve got boatloads of cash to spend, though they didn’t seem to understand that.  When the driver suggested another place to stop, we quickly let him know we’d seen enough of the “handicrafts” and just wanted to go to our destination… the hot springs in the valley of Mt. Batur (a volcano!).
• Okay, so, these hot springs aren’t exactly what we were expecting.  We had envisioned a natural looking spring, maybe a large pond, with rocks, and steamy water.  Instead, we were surprised when we pulled up to a resort and spa…. and the cost was 300,000 Rp/each; had we known perhaps we’d have changed our minds before getting there.  Apparently, the hot springs had been redirected into a manmade basin, two in fact, resembling hot tubs on either side of a large pool.  Granted, the facility was very nice, and it had lovely views of Mt. Batur and the lake, but not exactly the natural hot spring experience we thought it might be.  The water that poured into the “springs” was naturally hot, so that was neat.  We relaxed there for about an hour before hopping back into the van and setting off for some lunch.
• Again, our driver was kind to suggest this Indian place, high up a mountain, with a view of the lake and Mt. Batur.  We nodded, but secretly knew what we were getting ourselves into – an Indian buffet (ugh, buffet – we wanted to be polite, even though the driver and the places he continued to stop were clearly in cahoots.  Regardless, the view was pretty nice and while the Indian wasn’t the best, it was overpriced, but we ate, enjoying the misty mountain views and throngs of Japanese visitors doing the same.
• Next stop, Ubud.  I had heard marvelous things of the rice terraces and wanted to see them for myself.  This, perhaps, was my favorite sight in all of Bali; the perfectly crafted terraces, lush, fertile and green.  After a picture break, we went to the Palace, which was closed for an event, but we walked the perimeter and explored a nearby market.
• Finally, we drove to the temple on the West side of Bali, extending out onto the water; Tanah Lot.  I’d been warned that many-a-tourist enjoyed coming here, especially toward sunset hours, and I could see why.  The waves crashing below the temple, the glorious peachy colors in the sky, and ancient stone structure are in a way, magical.  Plus, there was a fresh water spring where many come to receive a blessing and sample some “holy water.”  Michael and I both joined in the tradition, giving a small donation to the monks, then tasting the fresh water (which is kind of neat, since this is in a small cave right on a the shore where the salt water comes up), then receiving a flower and rice on our foreheads (the flower= character, the rice=life/growth).  It was a neat experience.
• We drove around Kuta on our way back to our hotel.  Once we arrived and offered our credit card, the driver claimed that only cash was accepted… and so, Michael had to go out in search of an ATM to pay the guy.  We were rightfully unhappy about the sudden change, especially since we had previously confirmed credit was fine, but we paid him and he went off on his merry way.
• For dinner, we walked slightly South to a little place and enjoyed veggie curry and cashew chicken.  Exhausted from a long day of touring, we barely made it to the bed before crashing.

February 23 – Sanur, Bali

• After breakfast, we went out for a little shopping.  We found a great teak sign that we had engraved with our last name, to display in the front of our house.  We also picked up a bronze fish sculpture and a few other gifts for family.  The day was warm and humid, and we made our way to the pool to cool off.
• For lunch, we checked out the Retro Cafe.  I munched on a garden salad with vinaigrette dressing, a little bruschetta, and Michael had some Hawaiian toast and fries.  It was a light and satisfying midday meal.
• Being our last full day on the trip, we wanted to end it with some spa time.  We had been searching for the best prices for several days now, and decided on the Lotus Room.  For a 4 hour package including a 1hr. foot massage, 1hr. Balinese massage, facial and hair cream bath, we would shell out 500,000 Rp. for the two of us (just over $55).  The treatments were relaxing and unique (i.e. the massage involved a bit of slapping with cupped hands, to improve circulation).  I mean, you can’t beat the price and for 4 hours!  Had we done it over again, I think we might have skipped the facial and hair cream and just doubled up on foot and body massages… in all, a great value.
• For our last supper, we went to Cinnamon, and feasted on a platter sampling of 5 local dishes, sweet chili chicken and watermelon smoothies.  Midway through our meal, young Balinese dancers began an impromptu show of traditional dance and music.  A treat!

February 24 – leaving Bali

• We had the usual breakfast, then went out to pick up the name plate we had ordered be carved the day before.  We walked around for a while before having to check out of the hotel.  Since we didn’t have to leave for the airport until noon, we went to Coriander for a light lunch (the spot where we went for dinner our first night there) of spring rolls, a BLT and Viennese coffee, taking our time after finding our flight had been delayed.
• We bought a few little things from a small shop to spend the last of our rupiah, since we didn’t want to go home with extra currency, then grabbed a Blue Bird Taxi to the airport (apparently, all other cab companies will rip you off and claim their meters are not working).
• When we got to the airport, we found an exit tax needed to be paid before we could leave.  While we had planned for that by saving some rupiah, the price had been raised immensely and we were short.  Thankfully, we exchanged a few USD that we had on hand to make up the difference, but it was a little shock (300,000 Rp/person are needed to leave the country).
• Cathay Pacific was the airline we were flying home on, and being business class passengers, we had access to the lounge.  Had we known so much food would be awaiting us there, we probably would have skipped lunch.  But, we are who we are, and regardless of whether or not we’re hungry, if there is free food, we will eat it.  And so we had a taste of some of the eats and relaxed in the comfy chairs.
• Once it was time to go to the gate for boarding, we were stuck waiting in the general waiting area (delayed a little more)… not the luxe environment as the lounge, but eventually we were able to board the plane, we were ready to get home.
• I found the Cathay seats and entertainment to be quite good.  Michael wasn’t too fond of the layout, and unfortunately, the in flight entertainment was rebooted half way through the flight to Hong Kong, leaving us looking for something to do… but in all, comfortable beds that reclined 180 degrees and lots of choices.
• With a stop in Hong Kong before arriving in LA, we had some time to check out the Cathay lounge there.  Unfortunately, it was bursting at the seams with passengers, no doubt since Hong Kong is such a major business hub.  It’s very modern, and if you’re lucky enough to snag a club chair, can be quiet comfortable.  We found ourselves hanging out in the Noodle Bar for a while on the benches, and ordered some of the complimentary noodles and espresso drinks.
• After nearly 30 hours of travel, we finally arrived back in Florida.  We got as much sleep as we could, which wasn’t a whole lot, and readied ourselves to snap back to reality.  We were, however, very eager to get back to our little guy, Tanker, and have a good night’s sleep in our very own bed.

As far as honeymoons go, we’re pretty darn happy with the way things worked out.  We had an exotic adventure, on the other side of the world, and made the most of our time there.  If we had the opportunity to go back, our consensus was that Krabi was our favorite, and we’d love to explore more of that region in Thailand.  I also wish we could have seen more of Northern Thailand, but perhaps another time.  This trip was so different from any other we’ve been on, and we really feel like we go a true taste of that tiny piece of Asia.

Now the real question… where will we got next?  That’s always in the back of our minds, and while we slowly scrape and save away for another big trip, we will slowly contemplate our options.  For now, we’re reflecting on this latest adventure and the memories we’ve made.

Picking up where I left off, our journey from Koh Samui to Koh Pha Ngan was a bit of a rocky one. Of course there was the van from the airport to the pier, then the lengthy 2.5 hour wait for the boat to arrive, and who can forget the treacherous climb up the hills in the back of a pickup, strategically overstuffed with luggage and passengers. On the bright side, we had a room upgrade, a lovely corner suite with panoramic views of the sea and landscape below. After a meal at the lounge/restaurant that first evening, we were definitely ready to get some rest.

February 17 – Koh Pha Ngan

• Chu Chu, one of the smiley hotel staff, took us for a ride down the hill to a nearby scooter rental. Unfortunately, there weren’t many options left to be had, so we were stuck with one that had, well, a few issues — a faulty kickstand and the hiccups when starting. Regardless, we were set to get out and explore the island, even if our scooter was a little under the weather.
• The first stop was the Prestige, a small hotel about 15 minutes north of our place, to meet some old friends that had come in for a short vacation from Shanghai. We sipped on smoothies, our usual morning beverage of choice, and parted ways for the day.
• Let’s just say that riding on the back of a scooter, whizzing uphill (and down), on less than desirable terrain, is, well, terrifying. Thankfully I had a purple helmet to save my skull from the possibility of injury; though I never had to test its strength (phew!).
• We’d heard of this sandbar that connects an offshore island to the main shore and wanted to check it out. After 30 minutes of navigating uncharted roads, we found the location, only to be disappointed by a high tide. Instead, we went off in search of the Phaeng Waterfall, toward the center of Koh Pha Ngan. It was a nice little hike from where we parked the scooter, and the waterfall itself was gentle enough that you could climb up and stand beneath it. Michael had some fun for the both of us while I hung back a little and manned the camera.
• For some post-waterfall eats, we set our sights on Thongsala, the main port area where our boat came in from Koh Samui the night before, and found a small outdoor market. We got a few things to sample: spring roll – Light, crispy, savory goodness; chicken pad thai – Not the best we’d had, but tasty; guava smoothie – ’nuff said; coconut ice cream – Sooo delish! Creamy, smooth, refreshing ; strawberry jelly donut – Move over Dunkin… these babies are the good stuff
• Next stop, elephant trekking! While it wasn’t on my life’s to-do list, it was fun to be able to experience the feeling of being on such a large animal. We rode through the jungle while he, “Ellie” as I like to call him, ate some leaves from trees, stopped to smell things on the ground, etc., while we hung on to the tiny frame of our “seat” for dear life (I swear, there’s no way that thing was not secured properly). While it was a nice experience, it made me rethink my distaste for zoos here in the States. Seems like their living conditions aren’t so horrible after all… Sad, but not all animals are treated very well.
• We went back to Koh Ma (were the sandbar was supposed to be), and the tide had fallen to reveal the sandy path across the water. It was a beautiful time of day, where the sun was slowly creeping toward the horizon and the water felt great. We had a quick dip and searched for some fish with the goggles we purchased in Thongsala.
• Intending to make it back to our hotel to watch the sunset from our balcony, we got sidetracked, somehow missing the road and taking a 45 minute detour. We made it back, happy to have found our way, and readied ourselves for some dinner.
• La Dolce Vita was recommended to us for that night, as it was just a short ride away and was on Haad Chao Prad beach. The setting was quite lovely, with lots of little tables for two, twinkling candlelight, right on the beach. The food was good, but wished the portions were a little larger, especially after a long day of adventure. We ordered: cotoletta de milanese – pork cutlet with salad; bruschetta; spaghetti a la carbonara.  At 550 THB it was by far our most expensive meal yet. A small bonus was the firework show (a term I use loosely), shot off by a few people from the neighboring hotel.
• As was the way a few times before, we ended the evening by stopping at 7-11 for a few snacks before calling it a night.

February 18 – Koh Pha Ngan

• We woke around 9, then went to the scooter place to return our rental. Having seen a few restaurants just South the day before, we went that direction in search of breakfast. We passed a few before we came to House, a small cafe that served breakfast and beverages. It was a cute, air conditioned little spot, and we were pleased to have a filling first meal: pineapple and mango smoothies; french toast drizzled with sweetened condensed milk (of course); pancake, which was sort of large and flat, served with banana and pineapple.
• We went down to the beach after our rather tasty breakfast and rented a kayak from a resort near La Dolce Vita. For only 200 THB we were set for 4 hours – a good deal!
  The sun was out, the water was blue, and we were feeling good. We paddled our way North, searching for snorkeling spots on the way to Haad Yao, but not much was to be seen other than some seaweed clumps and rocks.
• At Haad Yao, we pulled the kayak on shore and grabbed a few drinks from a convenience store, then went off in search of lunch. We settled on a beachside cafe, with our feet in the sand, ordering: hamburger and fries- a little sad looking, but pretty good; chicken with basil and rice – very tasty.
• Leisurely, we paddled back to return the kayak, taking several stops to dip our toes in the water and enjoy the fact that we were half way around the world.
  We spent some time at our hotel pool, making conversation with other guests from France and Great Britain, then returned to our room to clean up and watch the sunset with some ice cream.
• Before I could take a shower, the power on the entire island went out. Apparently, this is “island living” and can happen from time to time (knowing that, I was surprised the hotel did not have generators). 2 hours and a cold shower later, the power came on as our friends were meeting us to head out for dinner and a peek at the full moon party (Koh Pha Ngan’s claim to fame).
• We walked to dinner which wound up being a rather lengthy affair, then hailed a cab to take us to the Full Moon Party. The driver made a roundabout way of getting there, in search of more passengers no doubt. We wound up picking 2 Australian kids up (they couldn’t have been more than 18), and while it looked like they hadn’t stopped partying, they were raring to go.
• To sum up the party, lots of young people (our guess was primarily 18 – 23), lots of neon body paint, lots of “buckets” (drinks served in little beach buckets), and techno. So, it wasn’t our thing, but we had a pretty nice time wandering around and people watching. We stopped at a bar at the end of the beach, “The Rock”, for some drinks and to take in the scenery for a bit. Fire spinning/jump ropes, dancing crazies, and loud music filled the air from below.
• A few hours later, we were ready to get out of there. We grabbed a taxi back and made it to the hotel around 2am. We decided that we’re not really the Full Moon Party type, but appreciated having been there and seen the madness.

February 19 - Koh Pha Ngan to Bangkok

• Our first order of business was arranging our ferry/bus transfer to Bangkok. Unfortunately, the ferry and flight times didn’t align very well, so we accepted the fact that we were going to have to spend a little r&r time at the Koh Samui airport (which we happened to enjoy, actually… more on that later).
• We took a taxi to the ferry at 10:15 am, then had to wait for our ferry to come (late, again), though it was only a mere 30 minutes past the scheduled time. In the meantime, we sipped on some iced coffee and munched on sweet crackers. The ferry ride was followed by yet another nauseating bus/van experience, but it could have been worse.
• With 3 hours to spare before our flight, we had some time to kill. Several shops and eateries were stationed at the Koh Samui airport. We picked a cafe to sit at for a snack and email. After a yucky BLT, we went across the way to a pizzeria and shared a pizza.
• After we went through the gate, we found Bangkok Air passengers had their own refreshment station. Had we known what treats awaited us, we might have passed on one of both of our meals before. The waiting area at the airport is great. Not only is the gate open air with a nice breeze blowing through, but the seating is very comfortable and loungey. Michael passed out for a bit and I read some of my book.
• On the flight to Bangkok, we were given another in flight snack. I tell you, this Bangkok Air is definitely a great choice for budget on a short flight. While the flights themselves are not fantastic, there are great little perks for passengers.
• At BKK, our hotel had a driver come pick us up and we made our way to the Plai Garden Hotel, 15 minutes from the airport. Not the classiest digs, but it was only for one night, and they had a restaurant. We were not alone that night for dinner. Several of the hotel’s guests seemed to be doing what we were – just hanging out for the night – and grabbing a bite. We had some spring rolls, stir fry veggies and pad see ew. After a little Asian television, we called it a night.

So for those of you wondering if you should make the journey to Koh Pha Ngan, I have to say, this is not my top Thai destination. Krabi’s sights and activities far outweighed those of Koh Pha Ngan, at least for us. If your heart desires a party and some place to crash, maybe with a little beach time thrown in, then Koh Pha Ngan may be the spot for you. For those with a little more cash to spend, or who want the ultimate spa getaways, Koh Samui has something to offer. Travelers from around the world have gone to Koh Samui primarily to fork out some serious dough for fancy spa treatments, detox, and meditation. I can’t say we’ll be back, but we were happy to have experienced this fabled island for ourselves.

Ao Nang, a small beach town situated on the picturesque Andaman Coast of Thailand, was the second stop on our honeymoon tour de force.  Catered to the visitor, the main street is lined with eateries, clothing boutiques and gift shops eager for passersby to enter.  But it’s not the inexpensive duds or overexcited shopkeepers that beckon travelers to this part of the world… the craggy cliffs, pristine waters and breezy temps make the heart go pitter-patter.  That and scenes from the Leonardo DiCaprio film, “The Beach,” were filmed very near; tour guides like to point out the curse of it, but in reality, they’re the ones that keep boating the tourists over to the infamous Maya Bay.  Regardless, the area is rightfully worthy of acclaim.

The J. Hotel was situated just off the main road, which was a nice buffer from the noise of passing mopeds and those getting their tropical drink ‘on’.  Our room was on the second of three floors, with a great balcony view of mountains in the distance.  Unfortunately, we couldn’t actually see the beach/sunset since our view of the shore was blocked by a building on the right that was just a little too high, but if we wanted to get our toes wet, we were only a 60 second walk from the sand.   There was plenty of living space and the bathroom was large as well.  Most importantly, we had a mini fridge!  Cold bottled water was a commodity.

But enough of the nonsense.  Let’s get down to the details of days filled with sunshine, swimming and breathtaking vistas.

February 12 – after arriving to J. Hotel

• We settled in, unpacked, then went out to the beach for a quick dip in the water
• Booked a tour for the next day, through our hotel, for an 8 hour boat tour around the Phi Phi Islands
• Choosing a spot for dinner was tough; so many choices!  The one that eventually swayed us was this buffet, very near to our hotel, and so fragrant.  The place was busy (meaning good, right?) and we were famished.  It seemed the perfect combination.  The food turned out to be so-so, with some really delicious items and others I could do without.  The real kicker was that we were seated right next to the dessert station… my chair was literally sticking out into the line, so not only were people annoyed whenever I had to get up, but it’s not the best atmosphere when you constantly have people standing over you.  We finished quickly and were out of there.
• After our memorable dining experience, we perused the shops for a bit until our bodies got angry with us and demanded we return to the hotel.

February 13 – Ao Nang

• We couldn’t sleep in very late, so we got up around 7:30 in search of breakfast.  Unfortunately, none of the restaurants or even street vendors seemed to be open for business, so we wound up getting some snacks of cookies and rice cakes (thai style) at a small grocer to nosh on.
• Picked up at 8:30 for our tour, by a small pickup with (of course) benches in the back for passengers to sit on.   By the time we were done picking up the others, there are 15 of us in the back, and another couple squished in the cab.
• We boarded a speed boat with the others and made our way to the bow for a good view.  Joining us were some Malaysian visitors that seemed to really enjoy themselves, in their underwear.  It  seems bathing suits are a rarity, or, they just didn’t plan on getting wet when they booked their spots (it was after all a boat tour, with snorkeling, and swimming…).
• The snorkeling was a good time.  We stopped at two locations, one on Koh Phi Phi Don and the other on Koh Phi Phi Leh, to check out the coral and colorful fish.
• Bamboo Island and Maya Bay were spots where we were able to get out and walk around on the sand.  The first was our initial stop, and the least busy.  Michael and I took a walk away from where the boats were anchored and enjoyed the peacefulness and sugary sand.  Maya Bay was a little different an experience, since as I mentioned before, this is THE location many people want to see – The Beach.  While it’s become a bit of a cliché, clustered with speedboats and foreigners packed on the shore, there’s a real beauty that even with all the artificial nonsense, remains breathtaking.  I’m making a note to watch that movie again, just so I can see what it looks like without the crowd.   Even still, I’m happy we were able to go there and actually see it for ourselves.
• Our boat made a stop for lunch around 1:00 for a buffet (ugh) which was probably the worst food we’d had thus far, but was included in our tour.  We then vowed to not go to any more buffets for the remainder of the trip.
• We arrived back at Ao Nang around 4:00, thoroughly sunburned and anxious for a shower.
• Dinner was great.  We went to a restaurant that had a nice atmosphere,  a little more upscale than others we’d been to, with a lovely waterfall in the back and elegantly dressed servers.  I had Panang Chicken Curry with Jasmine Rice – very tasty and fragrant.  Michael went for his standby of Pad See Ew with Pork – great flavor, but lots of veggies (which I saved him from), and one oddly long noodle instead of many.
• We were ready to hit the hay after dinner, but made a quick stop for some aloe, which we later determined was the worst aloe we’d ever used and knew next time not to go for the cheapest stuff on the shelf.  After properly aloe-ing ourselves, and allowing the bargain brand to dry, we were out.

February 14 – Ao Nang

• With a good night’s sleep, we gradually woke that morning around 9:30 and headed down to the corner for some Banana Pancakes!  They were fantastic, crispier than in Bangkok, and we were hooked.  We ordered one banana, one pineapple and one peanut butter pancake to share.
• From the pier, which is really just a small ticket hut and a ramp down to the sand, we purchased round trip tickets to Railay, a peninsula just South of Ao Nang.  The long tail boat ride was just over 10 minutes of nice, smooth cruising.
• Railay is straight off a postcard, with spectacular cliffs that draw rock climbers from ’round the world to give them a go, soft, white sandy beaches, and turquoise, shallow waters.
• When we reached Railay, we hopped off the boat and went straight for a swim.  Shortly after, we started off for Railay East – a 10 minute walk across the peninsula along a sandy path.
• Railay East was significantly different, with mangroves scattered along the shore and the tide was out, leaving the sand a little mushy and rocky.  We continued along a path that brought us through some caves and face to face with monkeys!   Some people were eager to touch or feed them, but we strategically kept our distance knowing rabies is no stranger to them.
• We wound up in a popular part of Railay, with a gorgeous beach and string of long tail boats, some of which prepared and sold food and beverages; essentially floating restaurants.  We took advantage of the opportunity, ordering a watermelon smoothie and grilled chicken leg, followed by some more swimming and relaxing in the sand.
• All that relaxation worked up our appetites, and for lunch we had a coconut smoothie, fried rice with chicken and pad thai with chicken.  The food was sooo good, portions hearty, and it was hard to believe how impressed we were with food from a wok on a long tail boat.
• We brought the leftovers of our lunch with us on the trek back to Railay West where we finished them off before taking a kayak out.  Our sights were set on the caves we had seen from the last beach offshore, and made our way out there, taking a few stops to enjoy the scenery.
• The long tail boat ride back to Ao Nang was really tranquil.  Michael and I were the only passengers and really soaked in the view and fresh air.
• Dinner was lovely, again in an open-air restaurant overlooking the sidewalk.  Wanting something light, I ordered stir fry chicken and broccoli.  Michael had sweet and sour pork which was delicious but, again, a little heavy on the veggies which I gladly polished off.
• After having scoped out prices earlier, we were ready to make some gift purchases, and picked up some souvenirs for family.
• A few people were selling paper lanterns on the street, and having heard about them before we were eager to partake in the tradition.  We lit the lantern and waited for it to fill with hot air, then released it and watched it float into the night sky.  It’s a beautiful experience, and so pretty to watch the glowing orbs flickering in the distance.
• To top off the evening, we picked up 2 Thai beers (Singha and Leo) for Michael to try, and an ice cream for each of us.  A perfect end to a magnificent day.

February 15 – Ao Nang

• We started the morning per usual… with some pancakes – mango, pineapple and banana.
• We walked along the beach some then took a swim, after searching for a kayak rental but were unlucky.
• After some more walking, we worked up an appetite and went to an area where a few food carts were set up and had lunch: chicken and rice, fried chicken, thai tea, iced coffee and coconut milk – straight from the coconut
• On the way back, we found a street with several restaurants situated with views of the water.  One, which featured two kitchens, we would return to later that evening for dinner.
• After a little break, we went South on the beach to come upon tons of monkeys walking around the shore and along a trail which climbed a high cliff.  We ventured up the trail until it seemed high enough for my better judgment, then made our way back to the safety of the beach.  Lucky me – I was touched by one of those crazy little monkeys (he scurried over my hand which was grasping the railing along the path).
• The sunset from the beach was really lovely.  It was so nice to just sit there and enjoy such a simple moment, knowing sunsets are no phenomenon, but that we were doing so half way around the world.
• Picked up our laundry – what a bargain!  57 THB for several items (just under $2).
• That evening, we dined at the two-kitchen restaurant of Sala Bua & Lo Spuntino for some divine eats: thin crust Italian-style pizza with prosciutto, fried rice in a pineapple, panang chicken with steamed rice.  The setting was great, right on the water, and so peaceful.   A great last dinner in Ao Nang.

February 16 – bye-bye Ao Nang… hello Koh Pha Ngan

• Per usual, we began the day with banana pancakes, then went shopping for a few more last minute gifts.
• Bought 3 bananas for 15 THB for the trip to Koh Pha Ngan
• Packed up and waited for the bus to the airport to pick us up.  While we waited, we chatted with a few other travelers.  One in particular was especially talkative, a twenty-something from San Diego currently studying in Singapore, who was taking advantage of cheap flights and spending some time traveling.
• The bus to the airport was hot and nauseating, but alas, we endured.
• At the Krabi airport, check in for Bangkok Air was quick and painless, though we had to check our luggage because the plane was too small to accommodate anything larger than a purse-sized carryon.
• While we were waiting for our flight, complimentary refreshments were available: cookies, iced tea, iced coffee and a few other snacks.  A nice surprise and good way to pass the time.
• Considering we were in a prop plane, takeoff and landings were wobbly and mildly sickening, heightened of course by the close quarters to sweaty travelers and lack of cool air.  But who’s complaining?
• Okay, so Bangkok Air hasn’t impressed us with their piloting or even the aircraft, but the staff and the little extras in a way, make up for their shortcomings.  For instance, during the 50 minute flight, all passengers were served a snack.  Granted, it wasn’t anything I’d jump for at home, but the little boxed bite consisted of potato salad some deli meat that hit the spot.
• After arriving in Koh Samui airport (which is one of the most relaxed, coolest airports… just a bunch of open-air buildings with thatched roofs and tropical lounge furniture), we purchased two van/ferry tickets (1000 THB total) to get ourselves to Koh Pha Ngan.
• The drive to the port was surprisingly long, roughly 45 minutes, sprinkled with bouts of hilly terrain and sharp turns.  Hooray.
• We made it to the port, only… we were 1 hour early for the scheduled ferry.  Unfortunately for us, the ferry was also 1 1/2 hours late.  Guess “schedules” are more of a guideline.
• 30 minutes past sunset, we were in Koh Pha Ngan, with two thousand other passengers in search of transport to their hotels.  Fortunately, or not, there were trucks upon trucks waiting to pile in passengers to their vehicles.  We wound up in the back of an open truck with 12 or so bags of luggage and 8 other people.  One guy was actually stuck sitting on the tailgate the whole way.  To paint a clearer picture, we were driving up a steep hill a good deal of the time, there were dips in the road, and the driver had a heavy foot.  It made for a memorable/adrenaline-inducing ride where we were quick to bond with our fellow riders, sharing stories and hanging on for dear life.
• We made it to our next destination, the Sunset Hill Resort, at nearly 8:30pm, a little dirty, rightfully exhausted, and eager to check out our new digs.

In the next post, more on the Sunset Hill Resort (awesome!) and our adventures in Koh Pha Ngan!

The journey officially began at 3:20am on 2/8, with the Super Shuttle pickup in Ft. Lauderdale, our transport to MIA in the middle of the night.  After some waiting for the check-in counter to open (I know — we were there before employees.  Thank you, Super Shuttle for scheduling the earliest pickup in the history of pickups.), we made our way to the cushy digs of the AA Lounge.  Ladies and gentlemen, as I’ve said before, it’s a definite luxury to be flying first and business class.  Thanks to our hefty reserve of AA miles, we were able to book our long haul flights to/from SE Asia with them and secure the fancy seats.  When you’re traveling literally 1/2 way around the world, it’s awesome to know you’ll be able to recline and get a few winks of sleep as comfortably as they can be.

As I was saying, we were chillin’ in the AA Lounge.  Nice refreshments filled us up, and had we not taken showers prior, there were facilities available if we needed them (a bonus I now knew about).  The 6:00am flight to JFK was  quick and painless.  Breakfast was served, though I can’t recall exactly what, and we were ready for our first layover.  Two hours and some confusion as to which terminal we were supposed to be in, we boarded our Japan Air flight to Tokyo.

The highlight, err… lowlight, was the Japanese style meal we both ordered.  “Why not?” we though, when given the option of a Western or Japanese dining experience.  In short, worst mistake ever.  Very pretty, but my palate is not suited to funky Asian culinary adventures.  The menu which I saved, specifically for the purposes of recounting how utterly revolting it was.  In print, some things sound a little off-putting, but the taste far exceeds expectations on the yuck-o-meter.  We genuinely gave it the college try, tasting everything, and even eating more than we would have otherwise, just to seem gracious and open-minded to the flight attendants who would no doubt judge us later.

Kobachi

Deep-simmered Taro with Dried Bonito Flakes

Egg Cake

Squid Roll “Sashimi” Style

Fried Marinated Sea-bream

Poached Lobster with Egg Yolk Vinegar Sauce

Steamed Chicken with Wasabi Sauce

Sautéed Burdock & Carrot in Spicy Soy Sauce

Poached Spinach & “Enoki” Mushroom

Thankfully, this was followed by a fillet of beef which I happily ingested, though it took some effort after having such a sensitive gag reflex experience just minutes prior.  Also, the tiramisu dessert was quite delish and I gobbled it down with a smile.  The flight, on the other hand, was great.  Granted, it was over 14 hours, so half way in, we started to feel the length of it, but the flight attendants were great and we had some in-flight entertainment to keep us occupied when we weren’t trying to get a little sleep.

Again, visited the lounge at the Tokyo Narita airport, only this time it was for Japan Air.  The flight to Bangkok was roughly 6.5 hours, and not really on par with the flight prior.  The plane wasn’t as nice, the food can aptly be described as “blah”, and we were nearing the end of our journey and simply exhausted and ready to be at our final destination.

Once we arrived in Bangkok, we had to make our way through the long line at customs… just what the doctor ordered after a day plus of travel.  That said, the excitement of being in Thailand was building.  From the airport, we took a cab to our hotel, Penpark Place, totaling 400 THB (Thai Baht).  For reference, 1 THB is approximately 30 USD.  The cab itself was surprisingly nice, all decorated with little flowers hanging from the rearview mirror, the light smell of incense and very clean.

The Penpark Place was modest in accommodations.  Our room was on the 3rd floor, and consisted of a bed, 2 night stands, a small table and chairs, air conditioner (praise the lord), and simple bathroom (the wall of which did not extend fully to the ceiling, so it was somewhat open to the room).  No frills, but thankfully we had one of the ensuite rooms, as others had a hall bath.  It was our first place, and in Bangkok no less.  In the planning, we knew we didn’t want to splurge on a hotel here and in the end, while simple, it worked out just fine.  The location was fairly convenient and within walking distance of restaurants and a market.

Brushing teeth proved to be a task that required mindful attention, and would continue throughout our trip.  Advised not to drink the water, we purchased bottled water for drinking as well as brushing our teeth.  It’s funny how one little change can sort of complicate things.  Prior to crawling into bed for the night, we had made our way to 7-11 at least twice, for said bottled water and a few toiletries we didn’t bring along.  7-11 stores, we found throughout our trip, are everywhere in Thailand and wound up being a frequent stop for us.

February 10th – our first real day in Bangkok

• Got up at 10:00am, though really woke much earlier thanks to a crowing rooster somewhere near
• Strolled through the nearby Banglamphu Market, staring at all the new and strange foods, but were only brave enough to share a watermelon smoothie, which was really, really good.  Lots of hustle, talking, smells and sights to take in.
• Approached a few times by “friendly” locals who really just wanted to sell us a tour, flight, or tuk tuk trip through the city
• Walked along the Amulet Market, which basically consists of hundreds of vendors, each with their own table and wide assortment of amulets (small idols, statues and figurines) for sale
• Admired the Grand Palace from the outside
• Saw the great Reclining Buddha – Temple of Wat Pho – awesome, golden and huge.
• Constantly in search of food, but tough to find something we’re ready to try
• Walked by the Giant Swing which, surprisingly, no longer has the swing part attached.  We later found out it was removed, but did at one point exist.
• Trekked the many steps up the Golden Mount for a great view of Bangkok, making sure to try out the gong along the way
• Took a tuk tuk from the Golden Mount to a late lunch/early dinner.  Unfortunately, we were subject to a driver that wanted us to make stops into stores to look around, so that he could get “free petrol” from the shops.  The first detour was a tailor.  The second, a jewelry store.  I grudgingly agreed, while my husband was a little more relaxed about the situation.  While I wasn’t happy about it, at least we got a free tuk tuk ride out of it.
• Ate at a street side spot in Silom: Veggie Fried Rice – 50 THB, Chicken Pad Thai – 200 THB, 2 Cokes – 30 THB = around 10 USD!  Hearty, tasty, and just what we needed after a full day without food.
• Walked to the river and wanted to take the Chao Phraya express back toward where our hotel was located.  A little confusion set in and we wound up hopping on the wrong boat.  Eventually, we made it near where we intended to be and completed the journey on foot.
• Tuk tuk ride to the Sirocco Sky Bar, located atop the 2nd tallest building in Bangkok.  Had some extremely expensive drinks, even by American standards, but enjoyed the experience of having a great city view, tasty beverages, and being half way around the globe.
• Took a long way back, walking for about half of the distance, then taking a tuk tuk the remainder of the way.

February 11th – second full day in Bangkok

• Started the day right this time, with 2 smoothies from the Banglamphu Market – an area which we came to quickly find out was a major backpacker hub.
• Purchased some tiny donuts from a vendor
• Returned to the amulet market we’d visited the day before, purchasing a small, jade Buddha which I have since sent to my Oma (grandma), and a larger Buddha, approximately 10″ in the Thai style for us.
• Wandered near the Palace and saw a great conglomeration of food stands.  Shared a bite of 1/2 chicken curry – mildly spicy, and 1/2 veggies over rice.  Really tasty, very authentic and only 40 THB.
• Took a walk south , then hopped on a ferry over to Wat Arun.  Climbed the steps two tiers, which gave us an amazing vantage point over the river.  Getting down, however, was a frightening challenge given the height and steep angle of the steps.  I white-knuckled my way down and nearly kissed the ground.
• Grabbed the Chao Phraya express again, only this time on the proper orange boat.
• We went in search of the Standing Buddha, which proved to be quite challenging.  In the meantime, I picked up some watermelon on the street and bananas for the next day’s trip.  We eventually found it, with some help.  It was as expected: gold and tall.  Thanks to a holiday, we entered and viewed it for free!
• For dinner that night, we wandered to a little spot we had passed before, about 10-15 minutes from the hotel, and went to an actual sit down restaurant.  We had 2 Thai Iced Teas, Pad See Ew with Pork, and Coconut Chicken Soup, for a total of 300 THB.  The soup I would pass on next time, but everything else was tasty and the price seemed fair.
• Still wanting just a little more, we ordered a banana pancake (aka crepe filled w/ banana slices and drizzled with sweetened condensed milk) that hit the spot.  So warm and heavenly.

Actually, banana pancakes soon became a thing we desired throughout the duration of the journey, and wound up eating again on several occasions (though changing the fruit up a bit from banana to pineapple or mango).  After a little research, Michael found the story behind the banana pancake.  In short, it’s the area’s response to the lack of Western style breakfast foods.  Thais started making these thin pancakes filled with bananas, quickly fried up in woks.  There’s even a “Banana  Pancake Trail,” a loose path followed by backpackers through  SE Asia.

February 12th – last day in Bangkok then South to the Krabi Province

• We weren’t able to sleep in very late, so decided to get up and walk around before we had to leave for our flight.
• Ate a cold spring roll from a street vendor.  Disappointing, to say the least, especially since I’d had a hankering for a hot, crispy spring roll.
• Tried coconut pudding which is prepared by pouring a coconut pudding mix into hot, mini-muffin shaped containers, forming a skin on the outside and the center remaining sort of soft and gelatinous.  Interesting.  I didn’t care for it.  Michael seemed indifferent.
• Took a taxi to the airport – cheaper than the taxi when we arrived (maybe more expensive in the evening?)
• We were at the airport and hungry, and the BK at the food court seemed to have larger portions and a better price than the other eateries.  So, we ordered a burger & fries to share.  300 THB!  Expensive even here.
• Air Asia flight to Krabi was small, the least leg room I’d ever seen, but thankfully the flight was only 1hr 20min.  Upon arrival at the airport in Krabi, which is extremely small, we were ushered to the taxi stand where we paid 600 THB for both of us to get transport to our hotel in Ao Nang.

More on Ao Nang and exploring the Krabi province to come!