Krabi

Mar 17, 2011 No Comments

February 12, 2011 – February 16, 2011

Ao Nang, a small beach town situated on the picturesque Andaman Coast of Thailand, was the second stop on our honeymoon tour de force. Catered to the visitor, the main street is lined with eateries, clothing boutiques and gift shops eager for passersby to enter. But it’s not the inexpensive duds or overexcited shopkeepers that beckon travelers to this part of the world… the craggy cliffs, pristine waters and breezy temps make the heart go pitter-patter. That and scenes from the Leonardo DiCaprio film, “The Beach,” were filmed very near; tour guides like to point out the curse of it, but in reality, they’re the ones that keep boating the tourists over to the infamous Maya Bay. Regardless, the area is rightfully worthy of acclaim.

The J. Hotel was situated just off the main road, which was a nice buffer from the noise of passing mopeds and those getting their tropical drink ‘on’. Our room was on the second of three floors, with a great balcony view of mountains in the distance. Unfortunately, we couldn’t actually see the beach/sunset since our view of the shore was blocked by a building on the right that was just a little too high, but if we wanted to get our toes wet, we were only a 60 second walk from the sand. There was plenty of living space and the bathroom was large as well. Most importantly, we had a mini fridge! Cold bottled water was a commodity.

But enough of the nonsense. Let’s get down to the details of days filled with sunshine, swimming and breathtaking vistas.

February 12 – after arriving to J. Hotel

We settled in, unpacked, then went out to the beach for a quick dip in the water
Booked a tour for the next day, through our hotel, for an 8 hour boat tour around the Phi Phi Islands
Choosing a spot for dinner was tough; so many choices! The one that eventually swayed us was this buffet, very near to our hotel, and so fragrant. The place was busy (meaning good, right?) and we were famished. It seemed the perfect combination. The food turned out to be so-so, with some really delicious items and others I could do without. The real kicker was that we were seated right next to the dessert station… my chair was literally sticking out into the line, so not only were people annoyed whenever I had to get up, but it’s not the best atmosphere when you constantly have people standing over you. We finished quickly and were out of there.
After our memorable dining experience, we perused the shops for a bit until our bodies got angry with us and demanded we return to the hotel.

February 13 – Ao Nang

We couldn’t sleep in very late, so we got up around 7:30 in search of breakfast. Unfortunately, none of the restaurants or even street vendors seemed to be open for business, so we wound up getting some snacks of cookies and rice cakes (thai style) at a small grocer to nosh on.
Picked up at 8:30 for our tour, by a small pickup with (of course) benches in the back for passengers to sit on. By the time we were done picking up the others, there are 15 of us in the back, and another couple squished in the cab.
We boarded a speed boat with the others and made our way to the bow for a good view. Joining us were some Malaysian visitors that seemed to really enjoy themselves, in their underwear. It seems bathing suits are a rarity, or, they just didn’t plan on getting wet when they booked their spots (it was after all a boat tour, with snorkeling, and swimming…).
The snorkeling was a good time. We stopped at two locations, one on Koh Phi Phi Don and the other on Koh Phi Phi Leh, to check out the coral and colorful fish.
Bamboo Island and Maya Bay were spots where we were able to get out and walk around on the sand. The first was our initial stop, and the least busy. Michael and I took a walk away from where the boats were anchored and enjoyed the peacefulness and sugary sand. Maya Bay was a little different an experience, since as I mentioned before, this is THE location many people want to see – The Beach. While it’s become a bit of a cliché, clustered with speedboats and foreigners packed on the shore, there’s a real beauty that even with all the artificial nonsense, remains breathtaking. I’m making a note to watch that movie again, just so I can see what it looks like without the crowd. Even still, I’m happy we were able to go there and actually see it for ourselves.
Our boat made a stop for lunch around 1:00 for a buffet (ugh) which was probably the worst food we’d had thus far, but was included in our tour. We then vowed to not go to any more buffets for the remainder of the trip.
We arrived back at Ao Nang around 4:00, thoroughly sunburned and anxious for a shower.
Dinner was great. We went to a restaurant that had a nice atmosphere, a little more upscale than others we’d been to, with a lovely waterfall in the back and elegantly dressed servers. I had Panang Chicken Curry with Jasmine Rice – very tasty and fragrant. Michael went for his standby of Pad See Ew with Pork – great flavor, but lots of veggies (which I saved him from), and one oddly long noodle instead of many.
We were ready to hit the hay after dinner, but made a quick stop for some aloe, which we later determined was the worst aloe we’d ever used and knew next time not to go for the cheapest stuff on the shelf. After properly aloe-ing ourselves, and allowing the bargain brand to dry, we were out.

February 14 – Ao Nang

With a good night’s sleep, we gradually woke that morning around 9:30 and headed down to the corner for some Banana Pancakes! They were fantastic, crispier than in Bangkok, and we were hooked. We ordered one banana, one pineapple and one peanut butter pancake to share.
From the pier, which is really just a small ticket hut and a ramp down to the sand, we purchased round trip tickets to Railay, a peninsula just South of Ao Nang. The long tail boat ride was just over 10 minutes of nice, smooth cruising.
Railay is straight off a postcard, with spectacular cliffs that draw rock climbers from ’round the world to give them a go, soft, white sandy beaches, and turquoise, shallow waters.
When we reached Railay, we hopped off the boat and went straight for a swim. Shortly after, we started off for Railay East – a 10 minute walk across the peninsula along a sandy path.
Railay East was significantly different, with mangroves scattered along the shore and the tide was out, leaving the sand a little mushy and rocky. We continued along a path that brought us through some caves and face to face with monkeys! Some people were eager to touch or feed them, but we strategically kept our distance knowing rabies is no stranger to them.
We wound up in a popular part of Railay, with a gorgeous beach and string of long tail boats, some of which prepared and sold food and beverages; essentially floating restaurants. We took advantage of the opportunity, ordering a watermelon smoothie and grilled chicken leg, followed by some more swimming and relaxing in the sand.
All that relaxation worked up our appetites, and for lunch we had a coconut smoothie, fried rice with chicken and pad thai with chicken. The food was sooo good, portions hearty, and it was hard to believe how impressed we were with food from a wok on a long tail boat.
We brought the leftovers of our lunch with us on the trek back to Railay West where we finished them off before taking a kayak out. Our sights were set on the caves we had seen from the last beach offshore, and made our way out there, taking a few stops to enjoy the scenery.
The long tail boat ride back to Ao Nang was really tranquil. Michael and I were the only passengers and really soaked in the view and fresh air.
Dinner was lovely, again in an open-air restaurant overlooking the sidewalk. Wanting something light, I ordered stir fry chicken and broccoli. Michael had sweet and sour pork which was delicious but, again, a little heavy on the veggies which I gladly polished off.
After having scoped out prices earlier, we were ready to make some gift purchases, and picked up some souvenirs for family.
A few people were selling paper lanterns on the street, and having heard about them before we were eager to partake in the tradition. We lit the lantern and waited for it to fill with hot air, then released it and watched it float into the night sky. It’s a beautiful experience, and so pretty to watch the glowing orbs flickering in the distance.
To top off the evening, we picked up 2 Thai beers (Singha and Leo) for Michael to try, and an ice cream for each of us. A perfect end to a magnificent day.

February 15 – Ao Nang

We started the morning per usual… with some pancakes – mango, pineapple and banana.
We walked along the beach some then took a swim, after searching for a kayak rental but were unlucky.
After some more walking, we worked up an appetite and went to an area where a few food carts were set up and had lunch: chicken and rice, fried chicken, thai tea, iced coffee and coconut milk – straight from the coconut
On the way back, we found a street with several restaurants situated with views of the water. One, which featured two kitchens, we would return to later that evening for dinner.
After a little break, we went South on the beach to come upon tons of monkeys walking around the shore and along a trail which climbed a high cliff. We ventured up the trail until it seemed high enough for my better judgment, then made our way back to the safety of the beach. Lucky me – I was touched by one of those crazy little monkeys (he scurried over my hand which was grasping the railing along the path).
The sunset from the beach was really lovely. It was so nice to just sit there and enjoy such a simple moment, knowing sunsets are no phenomenon, but that we were doing so half way around the world.
Picked up our laundry – what a bargain! 57 THB for several items (just under $2).
That evening, we dined at the two-kitchen restaurant of Sala Bua & Lo Spuntino for some divine eats: thin crust Italian-style pizza with prosciutto, fried rice in a pineapple, panang chicken with steamed rice. The setting was great, right on the water, and so peaceful. A great last dinner in Ao Nang.

February 16 – bye-bye Ao Nang… hello Koh Pha Ngan

Per usual, we began the day with banana pancakes, then went shopping for a few more last minute gifts.
Bought 3 bananas for 15 THB for the trip to Koh Pha Ngan
Packed up and waited for the bus to the airport to pick us up. While we waited, we chatted with a few other travelers. One in particular was especially talkative, a twenty-something from San Diego currently studying in Singapore, who was taking advantage of cheap flights and spending some time traveling.
The bus to the airport was hot and nauseating, but alas, we endured.
At the Krabi airport, check in for Bangkok Air was quick and painless, though we had to check our luggage because the plane was too small to accommodate anything larger than a purse-sized carryon.
While we were waiting for our flight, complimentary refreshments were available: cookies, iced tea, iced coffee and a few other snacks. A nice surprise and good way to pass the time.
Considering we were in a prop plane, takeoff and landings were wobbly and mildly sickening, heightened of course by the close quarters to sweaty travelers and lack of cool air. But who’s complaining?
Okay, so Bangkok Air hasn’t impressed us with their piloting or even the aircraft, but the staff and the little extras in a way, make up for their shortcomings. For instance, during the 50 minute flight, all passengers were served a snack. Granted, it wasn’t anything I’d jump for at home, but the little boxed bite consisted of potato salad some deli meat that hit the spot.
After arriving in Koh Samui airport (which is one of the most relaxed, coolest airports… just a bunch of open-air buildings with thatched roofs and tropical lounge furniture), we purchased two van/ferry tickets (1000 THB total) to get ourselves to Koh Pha Ngan.
The drive to the port was surprisingly long, roughly 45 minutes, sprinkled with bouts of hilly terrain and sharp turns. Hooray.
We made it to the port, only… we were 1 hour early for the scheduled ferry. Unfortunately for us, the ferry was also 1 1/2 hours late. Guess “schedules” are more of a guideline.
30 minutes past sunset, we were in Koh Pha Ngan, with two thousand other passengers in search of transport to their hotels. Fortunately, or not, there were trucks upon trucks waiting to pile in passengers to their vehicles. We wound up in the back of an open truck with 12 or so bags of luggage and 8 other people. One guy was actually stuck sitting on the tailgate the whole way. To paint a clearer picture, we were driving up a steep hill a good deal of the time, there were dips in the road, and the driver had a heavy foot. It made for a memorable/adrenaline-inducing ride where we were quick to bond with our fellow riders, sharing stories and hanging on for dear life.
We made it to our next destination, the Sunset Hill Resort, at nearly 8:30pm, a little dirty, rightfully exhausted, and eager to check out our new digs.